At H&M, Boosting Creativity Through Increased Autonomy and Collaboration
Based in 1947 by Swedish entrepreneur Erling Persson in Västerås, Sweden, H&M — previously generally known as Hennes, that means “hers” in Swedish — started as a womenswear firm, opening its first retailer in Stockholm in 1952. In 1968, the model merged with Mauritz Widforss, a looking and fishing tools firm, which signified the diversification of the model’s product assortment to embody menswear and children traces alongside its core collections.
Now a world retail enterprise spanning 77 markets by way of a community of greater than 4,000 shops, H&M Group is the second-largest trend firm on this planet. The group, which at this time owns Cos, Arket, Monki, & Different Tales, Low cost Monday, Weekday, in addition to H&M Residence, reported 236 billion SEK in internet gross sales in 2023, up 6 p.c from 2022. H&M Group employs 143,000 individuals globally and the model’s design crew makes up greater than 500 people.
With a head workplace in Stockholm however outposts throughout the globe, seamless artistic collaboration is crucial to provide on the tempo required to satisfy H&M’s shopper demand. (H&M)
With a head workplace in Stockholm however outposts throughout the globe, seamless artistic collaboration is crucial to provide on the tempo required to satisfy H&M’s shopper demand. Designers work intently with a devoted crew of product managers, product builders, planners, sample makers and enterprise controllers within the model’s design atelier.
A serious shift overseen within the design crew not too long ago was the removing of decision-making layers to facilitate specialisation and collaboration. This modification affords design and artistic groups the liberty, duty and autonomy to steer the collections within the course they see match for the model, from idea to execution. The design groups have traditionally additionally collaborated with Karl Lagerfeld, Maison Margiela, Comme des Garçons, Rabanne, Simone Rocha, and, extra not too long ago, rising model Rokh.
To study extra about how the corporate is championing collaboration between and empowering artistic groups throughout the enterprise, BoF sits down with three H&M staff based mostly on the model’s head workplace in Stockholm, Sweden: design director Eliana Masgalos; junior designer Robyn Clark; and development forecaster Dennis Claesen.
Eliana Masgalos, Design Director (H&M)
Eliana Masgalos, Design Director
What position does collaboration play amongst artistic groups at H&M?
The artistic groups collaborate on a regular basis inside and throughout totally different departments — as an illustration, as design director of womenswear version and additionally of world branding marketing campaign collections, I work with my speedy crew in ready-to-wear, but additionally with colleagues in the primary assortment, in equipment, swimwear, visible and window design, and particularly advertising. So I join with a wide range of creatives beginning at an early strategy planning stage right through to manufacturing — and it provides me a lot power.
What was so particular about our Autumn/Winter 2024 assortment was how we collaborated throughout features, not solely inside assortments the place we design the merchandise, but additionally to make enhancements to the bodily shops and web site, to have a constant story and expertise.
You may have a implausible product, however the on-line and retailer expertise are essential to showcase the merchandise in one of the simplest ways. Collaboration is inspired immediately from our CEO, Daniel Ervér. He has a really clear and heat message concerning the worth of doing issues collectively, for the merchandise but additionally for the tip end result and the shopper.
How does H&M encourage staff to make artistic selections?
At first, you’re a bit scared as a result of it’s a large firm and you don’t know precisely the place to go, however at H&M you’ll be able to really feel assured in your imaginative and prescient. I at all times attempt to instil that with my designers and the entire crew — to create an setting the place they really feel secure and safe in having an opinion.
I work with the course and creating briefs for the collections, so once I try this, I attempt to encourage but additionally give them an concept of the place we wish to go. There aren’t any flawed questions — I would like concepts to return from them and to provide them artistic freedom inside the tips of the unique temporary. I would like them to see the imaginative and prescient, however I would like them to do higher than the imaginative and prescient. It’s a springboard to create one thing much more thrilling, as a result of I don’t suppose that one particular person has all of the concepts.
After we begin engaged on our campaigns, we keep true to our imaginative and prescient, however the artistic half is that we will then construct them out with inspiration that comes alongside the best way. As an example, somebody within the crew may need seen one thing inspiring at an exhibition that they wish to incorporate. I believe that’s probably the most thrilling a part of my job — you’ll be able to construct issues collectively and you’ll be able to complement one another’s visions. It’s about the way you affect and encourage one another.
What excites you about the way forward for working at H&M?
We now have entry to the whole lot that each trend model has — we go to the identical commerce exhibits; we’ve got the identical development books. What we wish to do now’s to push the artistic groups additional and belief our imaginative and prescient. That is what has modified within the firm — we really feel safer about what we’re doing and we would like every position to be empowered. I believe that’s what will allow us to have the proper merchandise out on the proper time. Trend could be very fluid, so it’s essential to know the adjustments and transfer with them.
I […] create the briefs for the collections, so once I try this, I attempt to encourage but additionally give them an concept of the place we wish to go. There aren’t any flawed questions — I would like concepts to return from them.
Everyone seems to be so excited after our launch for Autumn/Winter 2024. I used to be within the widespread space not too long ago and certainly one of our colleagues mentioned, “It wasn’t just about the clothes or the images, it was inspiring because it gave us an idea of what we can be going forwards.” This remark made me really feel like we had affected the temper at H&M, the temper of our colleagues, and I hope that we will proceed to journey on this sense, keep safe in our imaginative and prescient and drive forwards, as a result of we’ve got thrilling plans for the vacation season, for Spring/Summer season 2025 — we’re filled with power proper now.
Robyn Clark, Junior Designer (H&M)
Robyn Clark, Junior Designer
What position does collaboration play amongst artistic groups at H&M?
At H&M, we’re one crew, so our roles are actually decided by what we do day-to-day. As a junior designer, I’m concerned with everybody on the design crew as a result of all of us work collectively. We collaborate on daily basis — everybody within the crew. All of us make selections collectively — so I make selections with the enter from my sample maker; my senior designer; my product developer — as a result of each resolution goes hand in hand with what the product consequence ultimately is.
We even play a component within the decision-making course of round the place the product is positioned within the retailer, which requires us to essentially perceive the product itself, in addition to your entire assortment. Nevertheless it additionally requires us to be related to totally different artistic features within the enterprise, with a purpose to make the proper selections.
How does H&M encourage you to make artistic selections?
I believe collaboration is essential to assist with making the perfect selections for the merchandise — and additionally to make these selections in a business and a sustainable approach, as a result of at first of the design course of, we go away room for alternative, for improvising and to maneuver issues round.
We now have house the place we will belief our intestine as effectively. So, I believe all of it begins at first of the method the place we’re given the liberty to make selections to help the extra strong selections that we’ve got already made. This actually provides us house for progress and alternative.
How does H&M foster a way of neighborhood amongst staff?
The tradition is so various and inclusive. You may see how a lot range there may be by the totally different backgrounds inside every crew, every division, and I believe the tradition actually affords staff the chance to contribute totally different concepts as a result of we’ve got so many individuals to study from. I believe our data grows a lot right here due to all of the totally different backgrounds.
All of us make selections collectively, […] as a result of each resolution goes hand in hand with what the product consequence ultimately is.
On my first day at H&M, I joined so many initiatives and communities as a result of there may be one for each particular person at H&M: we’ve got the LGBTQ neighborhood; the POC neighborhood; the Internationals neighborhood — and the Internationals one meets on a regular basis. We do totally different actions, like they take us out bowling; they take us out to dinner; to get pleasure from Swedish traditions.
I believe that’s actually essential as a result of this isn’t my house nation — I’m from South Africa. Numerous individuals on the head workplace right here in Stockholm do come from far-off. However everyone is so supportive, and H&M is sort of a house away from house — it’s a neighborhood by itself and they make you are feeling secure and such as you’re not alone.
Dennis Claesen, Pattern Forecaster (H&M)
Dennis Claesen, Pattern Forecaster
How does the development forecasting crew collaborate with different artistic groups and wider enterprise?
As a development forecasting crew of 10 individuals, we do various things — I personally concentrate on mega, macro and micro tendencies in a shopper setting, but additionally inside trend tendencies within the trade. My work encompasses wanting 10 years forward of time, proper as much as the right here and now — at all times attempting to be as goal as I can. Within the wider crew, we’ve got individuals that target color and individuals that target materials, for instance.
We work with an enormous group of exterior sources — we get info from quite a lot of totally different locations. Then, we cluster that collectively internally and share them with H&M within the type of inspiring displays supported and pushed by information.
We share these displays with the design groups or talk about our findings with administration groups, as an illustration, to allow them to use our work as a basis to start out a season. We contact so many alternative ranges within the firm and sit with the precise groups to debate sure matters, supporting them on materials or color selections. It’s totally different on daily basis. Typically, it’s additionally engaged on a strategic stage — so let’s say there’s a administration operate that has an curiosity in a selected demographic, we are going to sit down with them and share what we all know.
How does H&M encourage you to make artistic selections?
I really feel empowered to do what I really feel is nice all through my work at H&M, which I believe is about colleagues’ help — there’s a large help system right here. Totally different departments may help you in the event you’re caught or in the event you doubt sure issues, so there are individuals you’ll be able to examine in with. I by no means really feel alone, despite the fact that within the precise work and analysis that I do, I primarily work alone.
Our CEO actually communicates the message that we want creativity; we have to stand out. I believe available in the market you’ll be able to see that as effectively — you want creativity to realize a novel imaginative and prescient.
We now have been specializing in bettering our decision-making processes. We now have already seen designers and patrons obtain extra duty or help of their decision-making, in order that the whole lot strikes faster, and the product is best.
How has H&M supported your private profession growth?
Ten years in the past, I got here in as a print designer within the males’s studio division, and then I obtained the chance to change into a print forecaster. Then, when the pandemic hit, we realised there was a necessity for info in a particularly unsure market. From that time, I particularly began working with mega, macro and micro tendencies, which is what I’ve been doing now for 4 years.
I believe from highschool, any time I used to be talking in entrance of individuals, I used to be terrified and I used to stutter rather a lot. So, when this chance got here for me, I instantly thought, “I need to do public speaking. This is going to be a nightmare.” However, there are coaching programmes at H&M on find out how to study to talk in public and find out how to preserve your calm.
These issues nonetheless keep on with me — typically I’m standing in entrance of a crowd and once I’m completed, I believe, “How on earth did I do this?” So now, I can inform nice tales, present stunning visuals, and it’s superb to share your findings and have individuals come as much as you saying it was inspirational, or that they learnt one thing solely new.
This can be a sponsored characteristic paid for by H&M as a part of a BoF partnership.